Introduction

I always intended building this kit after a very lucky discovery a couple of years ago. It had already been started, blisters opened, Screw bags opened, Chassis started, etc. So it just had to be finished right?!

Before I started I made my mind up to do the body first. I'd never done this before & it was a hard choice for some reason. I think I wanted to be able to build the chassis & then just drop the completed body on top. I was right! It worked a treat. None of that waiting another week or two before it can be completed, If you know what I mean.

Anyway I hope you enjoy this article as much as I did building it. I've tried to make it informative & helpful, So you too can pick up some tips & end up with a cracking model!

Step 1 (spraying the body)

The hardest part of any build, The body!
Remember, The more time you spend getting every little step perfect, The better the finish will be. There's some things I don't do like many other builders, But it always seems to work out ok. So I stick with it.

First thing I had to do before anything was remove all excess plastic left over from the moulding process. Not much of it, But enough to spoil the final finish. I even had to fill the tops of the front wings near the bottom of the window pillars. It wasn't moulded very good & I was a bit surprised for a Tamiya. Next up is a really good wash. I use warm water & a drop of washing up liquid in the sink. Make sure you give everything a good wipe with a clean cloth. Then rinse & dry thoroughly.

Spraying time! I spray in a nice warm, Dust free place inside. I found a nice way of keeping the dreaded dust off your newly painted body.. Hang it up side down as soon as you've applied a coat of paint. Works a treat if you go careful with the paint (no runs) & have a really good grip on the body from the inside. I use strong plastic grippes for modelling. If there's no place to attach it, Make something up so you can. A piece of wood screwed into one of the inner screw holes? You can also hold onto the body with this while you spray, Using rubber gloves to keep your skin from looking like an alien from an old B movie!

A really good tip, Is to warm up your spray cans first. I put mine on a warm, Not hot, Heater. Or warm water is good. It just makes the paint come out better & seems to last longer. When spraying keep the body an arms length away, Get too close & those runs will get you! I let my bodies touch dry before more paint.

First is the primer. I use white automotive primer. A couple of coats will do using very fine wet/dry paper between & after the second coat. Use the finest you can get hold of 1500 grain I use. Making sure you get it all as smooth as possible without going through the primer. Wash/dry again really well & remember to get into all those body panel gaps. Use a clean tooth brush for them.

All dry? Now for the knee trembling main coat spraying. I ALWAYS use Tamiya paint as per manual for the main body spraying. Some people don't like it as it's very watery & hard to apply. I don't think so, As I know it well now & always gives the best finish in my book as it's made for the job. On this Mounty I used 7 cans of paint! 3 cans of the main colour for the front (cab). 3 cans for the rear (bed) & a can of lacquer for the whole body. Expensive I know, But well worth the finish I got. It would be a good idea to spray this body fitted together, But I didn't & did the front first, Then the rear. With metallic paint, Make sure you get the covering right or you will have the front looking a shade lighter than the rear, Or vice versa. I always put a coat of paint on the inside of any body I do to start with, Just to give it that nice finishing touch when you look at the completed body. And you don't see any over spray on the inside. Good even coats is what you need. Remembering at ALL times about that dreaded running! Don't be tempted to go back & spray that bit you thought you'd missed. Leave it until the next coat. I got about 2 coats per can front & rear, So that's 6 coats in total of paint! That is the maximum without starting to loose some of the body detailing.

With my main paint on & dry, I left it for at least a couple of days before the lacquer was applied. Lacquer is another art of it's own. You don't need much of it on, Thin coats is better. But remember to leave to dry proper between coats & for best results I use the 1500 wet/dry paper again to flat back the lacquer to get that deep gorgeous finish. After 2-3 coats of lacquer leave it for a week or so before you start with the last 1500 wet/dry again to flat it back for the last time. Now it's ready for some good polishing. Be extremely careful here not to go through the lacquer! I use 'Mer' car polish. Or any other good car polish will do. Gently bring that finish to a superb shine with some careful circular motions. Do area's at a time.. Roof, Bonnet, Wing etc. If your really careful the finish will be amazing!

Nearly forgot! While I was waiting between coats. I sprayed the front lower valance on the front grill & the surround around the cab rear window. Both same colour as the body. Remember to mask that window up well! Use wide masking tape & cut around the window rubber edge to get that perfect mask. To be honest while doing any body. Use Tamiya masking tape as much as possible where ever you can. Always make 100% sure you've really rubbed those edges down. Then you should eliminate any paint creep under the tape.

Next is the 'Satin black' spray on the front grill. I like doing these as they are easy & the satin paint always goes on nice. Mask up the lower valance, Again take your time to get it masked good & sealed well. I use car paint again for that 'satin' finish. Make sure you get into all those grill parts with the spray. Hold it again in your hand with some gloves on & turn it around as you spray. After 2-3 coats take off the masking tape asap, So it doesn't react with the body colour under it. As I've had problems like this on certain Tamiya paints & masking tapes.

Right, Now all the main spraying has been done were onto detailing. Oh no! I hear you cry, But yes it has to be done & if you've got that steady hand & loads of patience it can turn a model into something fantastic!